[冰島環島遊Day 5]前往塞濟斯菲厄澤,遊覽冰島東部峽灣風光
冰島東部的海岸有很多大大小小的峽灣,而在峽灣岸邊座落著不少小鎮,風光綺麗,其中最著名的一個峽灣小鎮叫塞濟斯菲厄澤(Seyðisfjörður),這個小鎮面向塞濟斯峽灣,四周被群山環繞,風景非常優美,大部份在冰島環島遊的旅客都會到訪塞濟斯菲厄澤。
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[註]:這篇文章是《14天冰島自由行推薦行程》的第5天行程和景點介紹,完整的行程介紹和有關冰島自由行的經驗分享和建議,可以參考上述文章。
冰島環島遊Day 5
前往塞濟斯菲厄澤,遊覽冰島東部峽灣風光
今天的行程將會從赫本出發,沿著1號公路開車到峽灣小鎮塞濟斯菲厄澤,沿途觀賞冰島東部海岸的峽灣風光,最後到達塞濟斯菲厄澤住宿,總行車里數大約是280公里。
DAY 5遊覽景點:都皮沃古爾鎮、Gufu瀑布、塞濟斯菲厄澤
DAY 5行車路線:赫本_都皮沃古爾鎮_塞濟斯菲厄澤
DAY 5行車距離:約280公里
今天的行車距離與昨天差不多,但由於今天沿途沒有什麼標誌性的重要景點,遊覽景點所需的時間並不多,所以比昨天的行程輕鬆。從赫本出發向東走,首200公里的路有不少路段都是沿著海邊行駛,可以望到無邊的大海和峽灣的壯麗美景,如果遇到吸引的風景,可以隨時停車欣賞和拍照。
冰島東部很多山脈都延伸到岸邊,在有些地方1號公路也無法繞過只能興建隧道,所以在這裡我們首次遇見了冰島少見的行車隧道。
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離開赫本不遠後的沿途風景。
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間中也會見到羊、馬等動物在路邊的草地活動。
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從赫本開車大約50公里後,會有一段路是沿海邊而建的懸崖路,這段路的風景很美麗,可以看到一望無際的大西洋美景,這裡有一個可以停車的地方,算是一個觀景台,可以在這裡停下來看看和拍照。
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過了這段懸崖路之後,開始進入峽灣地區,風景比之前明亮,不時可以看到峽灣和伸進海岸的山脊。
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不時還會見到羊、馬。
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都皮沃古爾
從赫本向東走,第一個遇到的峽灣小鎮是都皮沃古爾(Djúpivogur),這裡距離赫本大約100公里,建議可以在這個小鎮休息一會,吃個午餐後再出發,順便遊覽一下。都皮沃古爾的地方很小,鎮中心主要在碼頭一帶。雖然碼頭不大,但風景很美,碼頭內的小船、旁邊別緻的小屋,再加上後面的峽灣和山巒,是拍照的理想佈景。
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在碼頭附近一條海邊小路,有一排蛋型的藝術品,很特別。
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都皮沃古爾附近有一座叫Búlandstindur(布蘭斯峰)的山,這座山形狀很像一座金字塔,是這區其中一個人氣的拍照打卡點。Búlandstindur在都皮沃古爾鎮上很多地方都可以看到,在汽車駛離都皮沃古爾鎮向北走的路上也可以清楚看到。
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去到都皮沃古爾時間剛好接近午飯時間,所以在鎮上拍完照後,在碼頭旁邊一間叫Við Voginn的餐廳吃完午餐再上路。
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從都皮沃古爾繼續向東走,會遇到一個又一個的峽灣和峽灣小鎮,如果開車開累了,可以在這些小鎮停下來稍事休息。
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除了可以在小鎮停車休息之外,沿路也有不少休息站可以停車休息,順便看看風景。
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通往塞濟斯菲厄澤的93號公路
塞濟斯菲厄澤所在的塞濟斯峽灣與內陸之間被高山隔開,沿1號公路駛到東部最大的城鎮埃伊爾斯塔濟(Egilsstaðir)後,再轉入93號公路駛到公路盡頭就是塞濟斯菲厄澤。這條93號公路全長大約25公里,是在冰島自駕遊其中一條我覺得最美麗的公路,尤其是接近塞濟斯菲厄澤的那段大約6公里的下坡路。
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從埃伊爾斯塔濟轉入93號公路後,先是一段比較斜的上山路,大約走12公里後就會去到較平坦的山頂,這裡被稱為菲亞扎荒原(Fjarðarheiði),由於地勢較高,所以即使在夏季路邊也可以見到一堆堆未溶的積雪。
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在菲亞扎荒原有一個叫Heiðarvatn的湖泊,蔚藍色的湖水在遠處雪山和湖邊未溶化的積雪襯托下,風景非常美麗,基本上所有經過的旅客都會在這裡下車拍照。
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過了Heiðarvatn湖之後,就是一段下山路,在車山可以看到公路在峽灣兩邊的高山之間穿過,在轉彎位更可以望到山下的塞濟斯菲厄澤。
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這段下山公路是2013年上演的一套荷里活電影《白日夢冒險王》(The Secret Life of Walter Mitty)的其中一個拍攝場景,有看過的朋友應該會有印象,主角踏著滑板從這條公路一直向下滑到盡頭的塞濟斯菲厄澤鎮上。
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在這段下山公路的中段,距離塞濟斯菲厄澤3.5公里左右的地方,有另一個值得停車拍照的景點,這裡是一個叫Gufu的瀑布,雖然瀑布的水量和落差不算大,但配合周圍的風景仍然很美,值得停下來看看,電影《白日夢冒險王》裡面也出現過Gufu瀑布。
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塞濟斯菲厄澤
塞濟斯菲厄澤(Seyðisfjörður)是冰島東部最多人認識的峽灣小鎮,除了景色優美之外,還因為塞濟斯菲厄澤是冰島東部唯一一個有郵輪連接其他國家的港口,這裡每星期都會有定期航班往來丹麥的希茨海爾斯、法羅群島托爾斯港以及挪威卑爾根和蘇格蘭斯克拉布斯特,所以如果想在到訪塞濟斯菲厄澤時不會有太多人,計劃行程時最好先查一下郵輪在塞濟斯菲厄澤的靠岸日期。
塞濟斯菲厄澤鎮位於塞濟斯峽灣的盡頭處,小鎮與峽灣之間有一個叫Fjarðará的美麗小湖,鎮中心主要位於小湖周圍,如果有時間可以在湖邊散散步,或者閒坐在湖畔的座位慢慢欣賞和感受這裡的湖光山色。
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小湖周圍有很多不同顏色的小屋,很有北歐風格,與周圍環境非常配合。
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Fjarðará湖旁邊的這條小路地上的石磚油上了不同顏色,感覺就好像一條彩虹,是塞濟斯菲厄澤其中一個打卡熱點。
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每個鎮上都一定會有一座小教堂。
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彩虹路旁邊有一間很搶眼的紅色小屋,這間屋正好位於93號公路在塞濟斯菲厄澤的終點,從公路開車進入小鎮時一定會留意到。這間小屋的樓上是酒店(Hotel Aldan),而樓下就是餐廳,我們第二朝的早餐就在這裡吃。除了在室內用餐之外,如果喜歡室外環境,也可以在室外的木枱用餐。
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彩虹路旁邊也有一間叫Kaffi Lára El Grillo Bar的餐廳,這是我們當晚吃晚餐的地方。
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Hotel Aldan對面有一間超級市場,如果物資不足,可以在這裡補點貨,如果自己煮食,也可以在這裡購買食材。
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民宿Við Lónið Guesthouse
來到塞濟斯菲厄澤,建議在鎮上住一晚,慢慢欣賞一下峽灣的風景,第二天早上起來時也可以感受到清晨峽灣的氣息。我們在塞濟斯菲厄澤的住宿地點,是一間叫Við Lónið Guesthouse的民宿,這間民宿就在彩虹路旁邊,面向Fjarðará湖和塞濟斯峽灣,是塞濟斯菲厄澤其中一間評分最高的民宿。
相關資料:
Við Lónið Guesthouse的外型,整棟房屋樓高兩層,深藍色的外牆配搭白色窗框,非常搶眼。
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Við Lónið Guesthouse總共有8間客房,一樓和二樓各有4間客房,每層有2間房面向彩虹路,這一側的客房看不到海,也沒有露台,但價格較便宜,而另一側的客房向海,可以看到整個Fjarðará湖湖景和塞濟斯峽灣景色,但價格較貴,不過也值得,如果有房建議要租海景房。
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民宿的主人通常不會在屋內,到達民宿在屋外的空地泊好車之後,進到屋內會見到枱上有電話和電話號碼,可以打電話叫屋主來辦理Check-in手續,同樣,退房時只要將房間鎖匙放在枱面就可以了。
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二樓的客房望出去的景觀較好,但要搬行李上樓梯。
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客房之間的走廊。
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房間的設計相當簡約,色調以白色為主,除了大床和沙發外,沒有太多其他佈置和裝潢,傢俱基本上都是宜家傢俬的貨,很有親切感。
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廁所的設計同樣簡約,但感覺很乾淨明亮。
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我們入住向海的客房,房間內有一個露台,坐在露台也可以欣賞到面前美麗的湖光山色。
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– – – Day 5完 – – –
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